Is Yorkshire Britain's REAL food capital? We took part in a culinary tour through York to put the claim to the test
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With its medieval walls, majestic cathedral and narrow streets overhung by half-timbered townhouses, York is an unmissable destination for history lovers.
However, despite throngs of enthusiastic children sporting horned helmets at the yearly Jorvik Viking Festival demonstrating that the historical legacy continues to attract tourists, that’s not my purpose for visiting.
Yorkshire is progressively establishing itself as one of Britain's premier culinary destinations, and the area The 2025 edition of the AA Restaurant Guide featured 73 establishments in North Yorkshire—more than any other county—and significantly outnumbered Devon, which ranked second with 58 restaurants.
Given this, my partner and I are set to explore York’s cuisine via a culinary journey, beginning with a guided stroll led by the individual behind a popular food blog. York on a Fork , Ben Thorpe.
Following his departure from what he deemed a 'dull' profession in financial services, Ben now organizes food tours throughout York. He takes tourists to visit nine of his preferred eateries, where they can enjoy a meal or a drink at each location.
If you want to experience the heartbeat of the culinary world in Yorkshire’s revered city, this is how you should go about it!
Our initial destination is Ippuku Tea House, conceived by the married couple Frankie and Tatsu Ozaki.
Hailing from Saltburn In North Yorkshire, Frankie is the younger sibling of two, and both have married Japanese men.
She's now focused on bringing the authentic taste of Japan to God's Own County, which for us comes in the form of a tofu rice set with pickles and gyoza alongside a steaming pot of fresh, grassy Sencha tea.
Up next, Ben guides us through a delightful 'fish and chip' meal at Drakes Fisheries. The dish features a luxurious, crisp batter along with addictive fries, demonstrating that frying using beef tallow surpasses the use of vegetable oil typically favored further south.
Following a brief stroll, we arrive at The Shambles, York’s renowned thoroughfare and erstwhile center of its meat industry—highlighted by the butcher's hooks that remain suspended over certain shopfronts.
Considering this legacy, it feels fitting to savor a smoked pork taco at Shambles Kitchen prior to visiting a recently opened patisserie and café established by Florian Poirot, the renowned pastry chef known for his outstanding macarons and chocolates which earned him significant acclaim after opening his initial store in the neighboring town of Malton back in 2017.
Ben also introduces us to York’s role in Britain's gin resurgence through York Gin—a brand known for crafting a range of accolade-winning spirits influenced by notable locals—before leading us to visit another four spots, among which Ambiente Tapas stands out as a standout destination. This Spanish-themed eatery and sherry bar boasts enthusiastic and amiable employees.
A recurring highlight during his tours is Love Cheese, an intimate and eccentric cheese store and bar known as 'the world's first Speakcheesey'.
On another occasion, we return for an indulgence in 'Afternoon Cheese,' a playful twist on the classic British tradition. This delightful spread includes five varieties of cheese served atop a three-level platter overflowing with cured meats, olives, cornichons, chutney, crackers, and bread sourced directly from the nearby town of Haxby.
Every cheese is carefully selected by the highly informed shop owner, Jordan, who engages in friendly banter with customers as he offers personalized recommendations to meet their distinct preferences for different types of cheese.
In addition to cheese, York also gained fame for its chocolate, thanks to confectionery company Terry's, which originated in the city back in 1767. However, after an international acquisition led to production being shifted abroad, Terry’s moved its operations to France in 2005.
The Grade-II listed, previously owned manufacturing facility of the corporation, which offers views of York Racecourse, stood unoccupied for several years prior to its redevelopment into high-end residential units.
Luckily for those who appreciate good food, it has become a haven for culinary enthusiasts as well. The Old Liquor Store , an eatery with Italian inspiration, along with a bar and wine shop, managed by experienced restaurateur Ben Williams.
The head chef, Matt Leivers, was lured away from the Michelin-starred Star Inn at Harome, which makes it a must-visit destination for any culinary enthusiast exploring York.
Stopping by for supper, we revel in a remarkable selection of beautifully plated meals that offer bold tastes with none of the pretentiousness or skimpy servings.
I've chosen the pan-seared seabass fillet served with rice noodles and Asian greens as my main dish.
However, what truly stands out is my dessert—a caramelized white chocolate panna cotta crowned with cookie crumbs and pieces of crunchy, zesty Granny Smith apple.
For demonstrating reinvention, The Old Liquor Store seamlessly integrates itself within a city where numerous structures exhibit evidence of having been adapted and reused throughout their extensive histories.
Nowhere is this more obvious than in the Museum Gardens, where the ruins of a Benedictine abbey and medieval hospital jostle for space with a Roman tower, a parish church and the neoclassical Yorkshire Museum.
Beneath the menacing gargoyles and majestic Gothic arches of York Minster lies the Undercroft, which unveils remnants of a Roman fortification along with an Anglo-Saxon burial ground, all nestled among the Norman foundations of the present-day cathedral.
As you explore the city’s culinary scene, remember to allocate some time for hidden treasures such as All Saints' Church on North Street. This place boasts a 15th-century window depicting scenes from Judgment Day, alongside intricately styled angelic figures gazing down from the elaborate hammer-beam ceiling.
The small-scale layout from York’s medieval period makes the city quite pedestrian-friendly, especially when you make use of the numerous narrow passages called Snickelways that weave through its labyrinthine network of secret alleys.
And if you ever feel exhausted from all that walking, rest assured that there will always be a place close by where you can grab something to eat!
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